Lord Shiva heard her prayers and answered her call. He took on the mother's appearance and went to the daughter. There he helped her safely deliver the child. Then, once the daughter and newborn infant were safe and sound, he disappeared as quickly as he had come. In the meantime, the mother was able to get back to her daughter shortly thereafter. When she discovered what had happened, she dedicated a temple, to Lord Shiva.
…this is all what my host dad, Perumal, told me about one of the temples we visited. This one is at the base of Rock Fort Hill in Tiruchi, but there is another at the top. One must climb many steps (and pay a few rupees) to get to it.
My host dad Perumal led me to the entrance at the bottom of the hill. We took off our shoes at the where the entrance lay. A man took and placed them in an assigned space on a shelf. We then entered into the building which houses a place to buy gifts for the deities and to receive blessings from an elephant. I'm always amazed at how well trained these elephants are, but I'm still figuring out if I think it's cool or sad. Either way, I walked up to it and put 5 rupees in his trunk. He curled up his trunk and then tapped me on the head with it.
Perumal and I then started upward. We first stopped at one of the temples located on the lower part of the hill. Because I am not Hindu, I was not allowed to enter it. Instead, I stood at the entrance, hanging on the brass ring of an ancient door and staring inside. The pandits, in their white lungis (correct terminology?) perform ceremonies, placing food, flowers, and other presents around the deity. One pandit with kind eyes under gray, bushy eyebrows, entered and motioned me to come forward a few steps more, so as to get the best view possible. It is at this location where I felt the most reflective, the most peace. Everything was completely still. Only whispers of the outside wind could be felt. I felt something eternal there. How I wish I could have gone inside and sat before the deity, in the midst of whatever aspect of the One Above which was being worshipped. I would have stayed longer, but Perumal was waiting for me.
Perumal and I continued up. Not only is he my guide and guard, he is also my photographer. He just grabbed my camera and took all the photos for me. A few hours later I discover that photography is actually his passion, but he does not have the time to pursue it, nor a camera that is of high enough quality. And, he did take some good pictures.
We go up more stairs. I was delighted at the thought of exercise and of the burning of lungs that I miss from running, but I ascended slowly, both to admire the view, to be present in my feelings, and to not pressure Perumal. He needed a few breaks.
Someone's palace (I'm not sure who) was also built on the side of this hill, and so the path up lays between its pillars and the cliffside. Many other temple visitors of all different kinds ascend with us. Some are the aforementioned holy men and pilgrims. Others are from northern India who are traveling into the south. We also saw families and many children. Also, some damned kids kept photobombing my pictures, acting like monkeys. Ha, just kidding on the "damn" part. I had a good time with them….Still, I did want some shots without them in it.
Finally, we arrived at the building that housed the top temple. It was comprised of the temple, which has space for devotees to worship and also for the inner sanctum, in which the deity resides. Circling around the temple is a walkway where one can a) look out over the city, at the rivers, and the valley in general, and b) walk around the temple and deity's home, which is labeled circumambulation. One pandit in Salt Lake told me that circumambulating the deity is like a child who is always circling his mother's feet either out of love, attachment, or need of blessings.
Since I could not enter the temple (although I should point out that I am able to enter some Hindu temples), I walked around the building and enjoyed the view and the devotion of the worshippers. Because this temple was more crowded, I did not feel the peace I had at the lower temple. Perumal and I then descended.
Later, we also visited a Christian church which was built by the British. It was impressive, and I was surprised at how many were there praying in the pews.
The archaeologists say that the Uchi Palaayar Kovil temple was built in the 7th century. And I felt that, especially in the middle temple at whose entrance I had lingered. I felt that feeling of age and of passed millennia.
Before I left for India, I asked Dave to give me a blessing. It was most beautiful. One thing that God told me: "Though India is fast entering modernity, it is a land which has knowledge of many eternal truths, which were known here far before the west."
I feel that. I see it in the sadhus, and in the Christian nuns who walked all the way the hill for a blessing. In the woman who entered the Christian church and knelt before the crucifix. In the many Hindu temples that line the streets, and the small ceremonies performed at events such as the construction of a new home or the blessing of a bride. In the Muslim call to prayer. I feel kindness emanating from all the women who smile at me, and in Sita, who brings flowers to work to put in my hair everyday. Though I try not to give any opportunities for men to harass me, and thus have little interaction with them, most of those who I have interacted with are trustworthy and kind: the bookstore keeper, the security guard at the bank, my elderly next door neighbor who sits on his terrace just like I sit on mine, my favorite rickshaw driver, Perumal, and of course, Tamil, Perumal's sidekick. Never before have I been so recognizant of the fact that God is mindful of every people, and gives all of them some kind of knowledge of His existence, though that knowledge may look different than what we are used to in the west.